Christmas in Vienna
- Lucy and the lens
- Dec 11, 2019
- 4 min read
You can’t beat Europe for Christmas markets, and Vienna has more of them than anywhere I’ve ever visited. I thought Cologne (where I live now) had its fair share of places to huddle up with a mulled wine and listen to Christmas carols, but it seems like every landmark in Vienna had its own little Weinachtsmarkt to go with it. So here are all the Christmassy corners I found during my weekend in Austria’s capital, most of which I stumbled on accidentally while checking off my sightseeing bucket list!
Market at the Rathaus
The Rathaus is Vienna’s city hall, an imposingly enormous yet elegant building. The Christmas market here is undoubtedly the biggest, with over 100 stalls selling hot drinks, food and gifts. We would have preferred to visit during the day, as by the time we arrived at around 7pm we were battling through shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. Still, the over-the-top light installations here are definitely best enjoyed at night!
Market at Hofburg Palace
This cute little market can be found at Hofburg Palace’s St Michael’s Gate. The thing to eat here was enormous pretzels bigger than your head, which came in all sorts of flavours from ‘pizza’ to chocolate. You can sip your gluhwein and make friends with the horses that pull the carriages you see all over the city, as this is one of the places where they park up and wait for passengers.
Afterwards, duck into the nearby Austrian National Library and channel Belle in a scene straight out of 'Beauty and the Beast'. This historic library is the largest in Vienna and dates back to the 1700s, although some of the books can be traced to the Middle Ages! Obviously, these are books you can look at but not touch! I loved the bookcase door in the photo below, but don't forget to look up - the ceiling mural is breathtaking!
Market at the Kunsthistoriche Museum
Head to the museum early in the morning and check out the stunning circular restaurant as seen in the photo below. The museum has a beautiful collection of art as well as a collection of Egyptian artefacts extensive enough to indulge my Ancient Egypt-obsessed inner child.
Afterwards, head outside and discover the Christmas market that will have opened its shutters while you’ve been wandering around inside. The gluhwein here comes in boot-shaped mugs, and the main food offering was sausages of all kinds.
Market at St Stephen’s Church
If you intend to visit this Viennese icon, I’d recommend an all-inclusive ticket. While anyone can enter the main cathedral for free, this gets you access to an audio tour of the virtually-empty central area of the cathedral, as well as a guided tour of the catacombs and access to both the North and South towers. It’s a great deal, especially when there are views like the one below on offer!
Afterwards, to recover from the South Tower’s nearly 400 steps, grab a snack at the Christmas market that surrounds the church on three sides. I tried the potato ‘puffer’, a fried potato pancake with a choice of toppings.
Market at St Charles Church
I'd seen photos of St Charles Church with its white columns reflected in the fountain in front of it. However, when I arrived it was to discover that the fountain had been drained and replaced....by a farmyard scene complete with bales of hay and real live goats. Not quite the festive offering I was expecting, but the market beside this so-called nativity-themed scene offered just as many Christmassy treats as the city's other markets.
Market Am Hof and Altweiner Christmas Market
'Am Hof' is the name of a large square in the old town, surrounded by grand buildings on all sides, including the Collalto Palace where Mozart first performed in Vienna. I really liked the market here because of its wide range of food offerings and independent craft stalls.
Meanwhile, the Altwiener (old Vienna) market was a cosy little offering nestled into another nearby square, the theme here being wooden chalet-style stalls.
Once you've had enough of the markets, duck into the nearby Ferstel Pasage, which dates back to 1860. Its already beautifully ornate arches are complemented by Christmas trees along its length.
Then, if you're looking for a break from Christmas market street snacks, join the queue - don't worry, it moves more quickly than you'd think! - for a table at the historic Cafe Central, the favourite haunt of famous philosophers, poets and artists. It's probably the most beautiful cafe you will ever sip prosecco and eat chocolate snowflake-garnished cakes in.
Need a break from Christmas markets?
-Head to the Hundertwasserhaus, a not-at-all festive but still very colourful apartment block built in the impressionist style of Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser.
-Go shopping or simply just wander along the grand boulevard near Stephansplatz. This is Vienna's main street, where the grand buildings that flank it are almost a distraction from the stores on offer.
-venture further afield to the famous Schonbrunn Palace for a day of history and beauty....although I've been reliably informed that there's a Christmas market there, too!
Clearly, it's almost impossible to avoid Christmas in Vienna, so you might as well embrace it!
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